Why Retinol Is Your Post-Summer BFF
Written by Evan, Licensed Paramedical Esthetician, Acne Specialist
Now that we’re officially entering the Fall season, it’s a good time to think about incorporating retinol into your skincare routine. Retinol has long been one of the most heavily researched and effective ingredients for the treatment of acne, pigmentation and signs of aging, but it’s not without its drawbacks. Retinol can have a drying or sensitizing effect on the skin, which is why the timing and method of introduction (or re-introduction) of retinol into your routine can be crucial to maintaining tolerability, and therefore results! Keep reading to learn more about retinol and how to properly use it.
WHY AFTER SUMMER?
One of the main concerns with retinol during summer months is that it increases sun sensitivity, which is why many choose to limit or stop using retinol during the summer. During Fall, we may receive less UV exposure due to less hours in the sun which does make generally it a safer time to start using retinol. We are also heading into colder winter months where we experience more dehydration and dryness as a result of turning up the heat indoors and our skin being more prone to getting chapped from the cold. Retinol can often worsen these symptoms if introduced at the wrong time or pace, which is another reason Fall is the ideal time of year to try retinol. Our skin usually needs about 1-3 months to properly adjust to the retinol, which means there is just enough time to start now before the cold weather kicks in.
WHAT IS RETINOL?
Retinol is actually one category of retinoid which all come from Vitamin A. You might hear these terms used interchangeably. Other retinoids include retinaldehyde, tretinoin, retinyl palmitate or retinyl propionate. The difference between these retinoids all boils down to bioavailability. Our skin can recognize Vitamin A in its truest form which is retinoic acid or prescription strength tretinoin, but this is also usually the most sensitizing and drying. Each other form of Vitamin A needs to go through increasing amounts of conversion before the skin can recognize it and so they take more time to work or may work more subtly, but they are also more gentle on the skin.
THE BENEFITS OF RETINOL
The good news is that the main job of retinol is to increase cell turnover, so it can really help improve a multitude of skin conditions and provide preventative benefits. It can help clear acne and pigmentation especially with the support of other treatment ingredients. The increased cell turnover also keeps skin cells plump and youthful which also thickens the skin and helps dead skin cells exfoliate faster on their own, leaving skin looking brighter and glowier. Here is a complete list of benefits:
Softens skin texture
Reduces fine lines and wrinkles
Treats acne and can help unclog pores
Increases collagen and elastin
Slows production of melanin
SHOULD I USE IT?
Anyone who deals with regular breakouts or pigmentation, or has concerns about active fine lines and preventing future signs of aging would be a good candidate for retinol. Basically, unless you have notably sensitive skin, a retinol of any kind is a great ingredient to try out if you’re looking for results.
USAGE RECOMMENDATIONS
When it comes to actually picking up a product and getting started with retinol, it’s important to keep in mind the art of taking it slow. More often than not, those who jump right into regular use of prescription strength retinol straight away without any buffering end up quitting before the skin gets a chance to adjust because the dryness and sensitivity can become intolerable. It’s recommended to start out with one of the gentler retinoids and gradually increase to higher strengths. You can also start by applying with less frequency, for example once a week for 1 week, twice a week for 2 weeks, 3 times a week for 3 weeks and so on until you reach your desired frequency or until your skin starts feeling irritated. Another option for taking it easy on your skin is to buffer the retinol with a moisturizer first and then apply retinol over it at night to act as a layer of protection.
PRODUCT RECOMMENDATIONS
We recommend starting slow with the Vivant Derm-A-Renew which has an effective but gentle amount of retinyl propionate, and then graduating to Vivant Derm-A-Gel, or even the Vivant Exfol-A if needed. If you still feel like you need a stronger option, retinaldehyde or retinal is available over the counter at different concentrations or you can of course see your dermatologist for a prescription of tretinoin as a last resort.
The most important thing to remember is that introducing retinol into your routine requires a careful balance for your skin but can be very worthwhile for achieving and maintaining results while preventing future issues. Come into the spa this Fall to get personalized recommendations from your Esthetician and also experience our Pumpkin Enzyme Mask before it’s gone!
VIVANT DERM-A-RENEW
VIVANT DERM-A-GEL
VIVANT EXFOL-A